Hi, this is Shohei.
In this blog, I would like to introduce Tsujimura dyeing and weaving company, that have supported KUON's creations from the early days to the current season, and that is an indispensable part of KUON.
They produce a part of KUON's fabrics, and many of our customers have been fascinated by items made with their fabrics.
In this season,
Aizome Slub Regular Collar Shirt,
Aizome Oxford Noragi and Aizome Kasuri Noragi are made of Tsujimura's fabrics. Even these few fabrics give a sense of the depth and colorful expression of Tsujimura's fabrics.
About Tsujimura Dyeing and Weaving company
Tsujimura Dyeing and Weaving Company is a long-established factory with a history of over 150 years, located in the so-called Enshu region of Hamamatsu City, Shizuoka Prefecture. The western part of Shizuoka Prefecture, where Hamamatsu City is located, has long been known as one of the leading cotton textile production areas in Japan, where highly skilled craftsmen have been nurtured due to the climate suitable for cotton cultivation.
Not only dyeing but also weaving
As the word "dyeing and weaving" suggests, Tsujimura handles the entire process from dyeing the threads with indigo to weaving them into fabric. Here we introduce some part of the process of weaving carefully and painstakingly.
The first step is to put threads together in a certain group to make sure that the threads do not fall apart when they are dyed with indigo.
Next, the group of thread is boiled to remove oil and wax, and then refined. A lot of time and effort is put into the preparation to ensure a beautiful finish.
Then, put them in pots filled with Indigo to be dyed.
The secret of the depth of Mr. Tsujimura's indigo dyeing is the several pots that have different shades of indigo. They always prepare indigo dyes from light shade to dark one, and dye the refined threads in order from light indigo to dark indigo.
It is a labor-intensive and strenuous process, but it is said that dyeing with increasing concentrations of indigo dye in order produces better and more beautiful colors than dyeing with darker indigo dye bottles out of the blue. One can sense the seriousness and diligence of the artisans in the dyeing process.
After repeated dyeing until the desired indigo color is achieved, starch or oil is applied to the thread to make it stronger and more slippery, and the thread is dried as shown in the photo above.
As mentioned briefly, the indigo dyeing process varies depending on the temperature, humidity, and condition of the dye solution. It takes an overwhelming amount of experience to achieve the desired color.
After this process, the threads are woven into fabric.
Threads to Fabric
The first step of weaving process is preparation. The dried threads are put on a wheel-like part to be rolled and made into reels. Even though the indigo-dyed thread is durable, it easily breaks by the tension in this process when it absorbs moisture, so this process also requires experience.
You can see the difference of indigo shades between the reels in the front and the ones in the back of the photo.
Once the yarn is in reel form and wound onto a huge roll called a beam for setting on the loom.
The warp threads are wound onto the beam and threaded through the loom's parts: the dropper, the wire heald, and the reed.
Depending on the fabric to be woven, hundreds or thousands of threads are threaded by hand, a mind-boggling task...
Finally, the loom can be in operation.
Do you remember the fabric above?
Tsujimura has been in business for more than 150 years, has a quest to create newness while preserving tradition, resulting in innovative indigo-dyed fabrics as well as fabrics with the feel of good old indigo dyeing. I really look forward to seeing them every season.
This Aizome Slub fabric is woven using indigo-dyed threads of different shades and thicknesses, so the fabric has a unique texture with unevenness like a sashiko weave fabric.
It feels fluffy and thick to the touch, but when worn, it is light. The uneven surface of the fabric reduces the area that touches the skin, allowing you to stay dry and comfortable even in the coming sweaty season.
I hope you feel the depth of Tsujimura's fabric.
Wish I could visit them with you guys someday...
Products made with Tsujimura's fabric in this season
Aizome Slub Regular Collar Shirt
