One of the uniqueness of KUON clothing is the coexistence of casual and elegant. You can read more about the episode here, but our designer Ishibashi is well versed in elegant tailoring from his experience as a tailor, and he is also well versed in casual expressions from his experience in "kolor".
In the case of a dressy item like this coat, it's not simply a matter of simplifying it and making it more casual. Casual specifications and relaxed patterns/cuttings are incorporated into details to create a perfect balance. I will explain it with pictures.
The first point he arranged is easy to find, the SAKIORI lining and waist belt.
While the belt is made of realistic SAKIORI, the lining is made of printed SAKIORI on the slippery polyester.
It is inspired by a traditonal way of design in Japan called "Ura-Masari" that means flashy design on lining and simple surface. It is developed to show rebellion against the rules.
In Edo period, hanten jackets were the uniform for fire fighters, and they customized thier hantens with flashy linings such as paintings, embroidery and/or woven fabrics. They wore it inside out to show off only when they did a great job.
In my generation(late 30s), we customized the lining and the back of buttons of the school uniforms(junior high and high school) to be rebellious against rules/adults. If you are interested in, you can find pictures by googling with "学ラン 裏地".
It is soft, light and easy to wear because it doesn't have thick hair-cloth interlining/hair canvas. Yes, it's unconstructed. Coats worn over suits should have it to make their chest constructed, but this is the right choice for casual style.
There is no shoulder pads as well, but only sleeve head waddings were applied to make the sleeves beautiful. The sleeve head wadding is made from bias cut main material, which gives unique rounded, natural shoulder line.
While unconstructed coats and jackets are easy to wear, they have the disadvantage that their collars and lapels easily lose their tension.
This is the thing that causes the lapels to be flatten after a long time of wear.
In order to solve this problem, a stay tape on the inside of collar is sewn to the main fabric to make the lapel stays stiff and firm like constructed coats.
In addition, the gorge is set slightly lower for a casual look.
The corners are mitered, mitering a corner makes a smooth, tidy finish to a 90-degree corner, neatly squaring the corners while creating a diagonal seam from the point of the corner to the inside edge. The key details are finished in a tailor's technique to retain a sense of elegance.
Inside pockets are placed vertically so as not to cut the patterned lining unnaturally, also making it easier to access and improving functionality.
It is slightly shaped but almost hang straight down from the shoulders.
Thank you for reading through the article. In fashion, the most important thing is to look good, but we also want to explain you how carefully KUON designed and produced our products.
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