FW26 — Familiar Clothes, New Expressions
Hi everyone, Arata here.
Today, I’d like to introduce two pieces from FW26 that I’m particularly fond of: our MA-1, mud-dyed at Kanai Kogei on Amami Oshima, and our sashiko denim, featuring the handwork of SASHIKO GALS.
The MA-1 and jeans are familiar pieces in our wardrobes. And that familiarity is precisely what makes them interesting to work with. A different combination of materials and techniques can give something we know well an entirely new expression.
But an unusual technique isn’t enough on its own. A piece also needs to make you think, “This is good,” when you put it on. That balance has always mattered to us at KUON.
So today, I’d like to share a little more about these two pieces, from the character of their fabrics to the details hidden inside.
DOROZOME MA-1
First up is our MA-1, mud-dyed at Kanai Kogei on Amami Oshima—a piece that captures the spirit of FW26.
Mud dyeing, or dorozome, is a traditional dyeing technique passed down on the island.
The name might suggest that the fabric simply takes on the color of the mud, but the process is a little different. Tannins extracted from sharinbai react with the iron in the mud, creating those deep, complex colors.
In other words, mud dyeing uses a chemical reaction between natural ingredients.
And this time, the material we chose was nylon.
When you think of mud dyeing, you probably picture natural fibers such as silk, cotton, or linen. Instead, we brought a synthetic fiber into the picture.
At first glance, traditional natural dyeing and modern synthetic fibers might seem like opposites. But mud dyeing creates color through chemistry, and nylon is itself a product of chemistry.
Thinking about it that way, I wonder whether the two might be a better match than they first appear.
Of course, achieving a beautiful finish on nylon with natural dyes takes considerable skill.
That’s where Kanai Kogei came in.
They have spent years working with mud dyeing and understanding how different materials behave. To me, the color they achieved here reflects that experience.
The finished nylon has a very different character from what you would usually expect of an MA-1.
Its subtle sheen combines with the variations of the mud dye, creating a color with remarkable depth. Depending on the light, it can appear brown or almost black.
It isn’t uniform. But that is part of what makes it beautiful.
And as you wear it, its appearance gradually changes.
It ages differently from natural fibers. Watching this particular combination of nylon and mud dye develop over time is another part of the pleasure of wearing it.
Of course, there is more to this MA-1 than its dyeing.
We have retained the volume that makes an MA-1 recognizable while keeping the overall proportions compact. The length, the width of the body, the balance of the sleeves—all have been considered to preserve its military character while creating a silhouette that looks right in everyday life.
And there is one detail I especially want you to see: the inside.
We have generously lined the jacket with a sashiko-woven checkerboard fabric. And yes, this lining has also been mud-dyed at Kanai Kogei.
The outer fabric is nylon. The lining is cotton sashiko weave.
Two very different materials, finished using the same dyeing technique. Their textures and colors respond differently, yet they come together surprisingly naturally within a single jacket.
Amami Oshima’s mud dyeing tradition, Kanai Kogei’s expertise, modern nylon, sashiko weaving, and KUON’s patternmaking all come together here.
There is a lot packed into this one jacket.
Rather than keeping traditional techniques in their original setting, we combine them with the materials and clothes we wear today to create something new.
I think this MA-1 expresses what we have always tried to do at KUON.
It is a piece we have put a great deal into, and one I’m especially proud of this season.
SASHIKO MENDED DENIM
The other piece I’d like to introduce is our SASHIKO MENDED DENIM.
It first appeared in SS26, when we offered it exclusively in indigo. For FW26, we have added black denim to the lineup.
The indigo version has distinctive fading and wear marks created through the finishing process, with plenty of contrast to bring out the sashiko.
It has the character of vintage denim, but feels relaxed and casual. To me, it fits naturally with how we want to dress right now.
The new black version has a slightly different mood.
The overall impression is understated and refined. Look closer, though, and the hand-stitching by SASHIKO GALS is very much there.
Against the quieter black background, the stitches become an accent.
It makes less of an immediate statement than the indigo, which also makes it easy to wear with jackets, shirts, knitwear, and all sorts of other pieces. I think it is a good starting point for anyone trying sashiko clothing for the first time.
The sashiko is, of course, the work of SASHIKO GALS.
Every sashiko stitch is sewn by hand.
The work is meticulous, but it never has the exact uniformity of a machine. The spacing of the stitches, the character of the thread, the placement of the mending—each pair carries traces of the person who worked on it.
So even within the same design, no two pairs are exactly alike.
That is what I find so interesting about the work of SASHIKO GALS.
The technique is traditional, but the result never feels formal or rigid. There is care in every stitch, alongside a sense of freedom and a little playfulness.
Rather than something to admire from a distance as a craft object, this is sashiko that belongs naturally in the clothes we wear every day.
To me, that is the character of SASHIKO GALS.
Of course, sashiko alone doesn’t make a great pair of jeans.
The silhouette matters just as much to us.
The starting point is the timeless, straight-leg, five-pocket jean exemplified by the Levi’s 501. We have taken those familiar, well-established proportions and refined them in our own way.
From the waist through the hips and thighs, right down to the hem, the line falls cleanly. It is neither too wide nor too slim.
A straight-leg silhouette might look simple, but with something this familiar, small differences in the pattern can have a big effect when you put it on.
Over the years, we have been fortunate to hear from many customers who particularly appreciate the cut of KUON’s trousers. These jeans continue that approach.
With sashiko denim, the stitching naturally catches your eye first. But we didn’t want to make jeans that existed only to show off the sashiko.
First, they need to have a beautiful silhouette.
They need to be comfortable and make you want to reach for them again and again.
Then, on top of that, comes the handwork of SASHIKO GALS.
The indigo lets you enjoy the relaxed character of the finishing alongside the presence of the stitching. The black offers a quieter way to bring sashiko into your everyday wardrobe.
It is the same design, but the change in color gives it a very different expression.
For me, the appeal of SASHIKO MENDED DENIM lies in that balance: the individuality of handwork and the familiarity of a pair of jeans you can wear every day.
There is a little more to both pieces than a photograph can capture: the variations in the mud dye, the texture of the stitching, and the way they look when worn.
Come by the store and try them on, or take a closer look in our online store. We’ve included photos to show as much of that character as possible.
You might just find yourself making room for one in your wardrobe.
